Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

“For both Finnegan and I, surfing, initially, was an identity when were searching for one, and then we discovered it made us feel better about ourselves. It wasn’t fiction, it was real… and we wrote about that. Surfing is such a kinetic medium, it can be hard to capture in words. Maybe that’s why film and photography seem to be the foremost media for telling surf tales. And yet, Finnegan’s descriptions of waves are stunningly vivid.” Read more...

The best books on Surfing

Gerry Lopez, Sportspersons & Sportswriter