Breath
by Tim Winton
It’s a novel about a teenager who becomes obsessed with surfing. What’s interesting are the descriptions of the surfing. It’s the most wonderful description of coming to the edge, searching for ever new extremes, coming to the point of death, and then at the last second avoiding it. I chose it because it picks apart our search for enjoyment in today’s society, and shows how that is often linked to near-death experiences.
